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Material Procurement

  • basilvos
  • Oct 31
  • 4 min read

Updated: Nov 16

Timeline recalibrated to Week 5 to align all records, and new standards for leather thickness, thread specification, and tooling were established following multiple shipper-related disruptions. Sourcing reviews, regulatory changes, and material validation shaped the updated framework guiding the next prototype stage.

Date: Saturday November 1, 2025

Classification: Week 5 Day 1 | Admin Day

The goal for this week was to lock in the right combination of archival-grade leather, precision tools, and thread for the next stage of prototyping. On all accounts, I failed to do so. After two shipper-canceled orders, the drawing board pushed a notification: “Back to it.”


After thoughtful review, hours of research, and the power of math, Rocky Mountain Leather Supply met me where I’m at, or at least where we both can be.



Notable Sources Researched




Finalized Order


  • Rocky Mountain Leather Supply Alran “Sully” Chevre Chagrin (France) — Charcoal | X-Large (~5 sq ft) Vegetable-tanned goatskin, ~1.1 mm (≈ 2.75 oz), medium-firm temper. Chosen for its balance of rigidity and flexibility without backing or adhesives. Graphite-tone should sit nicely against the black paper stock.

  • Rocky Mountain Leather Supply Kyoshin Elle Corner Punch (1 cm radius)

    Produces a ¼-inch corner round for leather covers; proportionally matches the ⅛-inch paper rounder I plan to purchase later: Lassco Wizer Model 50B

  • Rocky Mountain Leather Supply Rocky Mountain Premium Titanium Hole Punch Set (#1–5)

    Range from 1 mm to 2.5 mm; titanium-coated for edge longevity and precise cylindrical holes in leather and paper templates.

  • Rocky Mountain Leather Supply Fil au Chinois “Lin Câblé” Waxed Linen Thread (size 432 | 0.63 mm | black)

    100 % flax linen from France; archival-grade replacement for the Talas Irish Linen currently out of stock.


Material Continuity


Symbol Key ~ means approximately, a general value rather than a precise measurement. ≈ means roughly equivalent to, used when comparing two related but not identical systems of measure such as leather weight in ounces and thickness in millimeters.

The new Alran Sully hide (~1.1 mm) sits just above the Tandy practice leather (2–2.5 oz ≈ 0.8–1.0 mm) that defined the minimum acceptable thickness.


According to my research, goat leather is denser than cowhide, so at the same measurement it should feel slightly stiffer and hold form longer. In leatherworking this tactile quality is called the hand. It describes how a material feels and responds in the hand: its softness, weight, spring, and pliability. The Alran should have a firmer hand than the Tandy cowhide of equal thickness. This difference should also produce cleaner folds and less stretch during stitching. Without much personal experience to say for certain, we will find out soon enough.



Supply Chain Context


According to J. Hewit & Sons Ltd., archival leather suppliers based in Scotland, as of August 2025 “US import duties now apply to all shipments from the UK, regardless of value, due to the removal of the USD $800 de minimis exemption.”


The change stems from the White House Executive Order Suspending Duty-Free De Minimis Treatment for All Countries (29 Aug 2025), amending 19 U.S.C. 1321(a)(2)(C):


“The duty-free de minimis exemption … shall no longer apply to any shipment of articles … regardless of value, country of origin, mode of transportation, or method of entry.” — whitehouse.gov

Previously, shipments under $800 entered duty-free. Now each is taxed with a 10 percent baseline plus category-specific rates such as 2.4 percent for goatskin leather.


Reference: Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (HTSUS), 2025 Revision 1, Section VIII — Chapter 41: Raw hides and skins (other than furskins) and leather; Subheading 4106.22.00 — In the dry state (crust), of goats or kids (“wet-blue” processed); General duty rate 2.4 % ad valorem.


(The numeric “4106.22.1000” Hewit referenced is the legacy code from an earlier HTS edition; the current line that carries its duty rate is 4106.22.00.) — U.S. International Trade Commission


In practice, Hewit notes that couriers often add handling or processing fees between $20 and $30 per shipment, and that recent customs backlogs in the U.S. have caused extended delays and additional administrative costs.


From experience, this policy has already made sourcing more expensive and unpredictable.



Personal Note


Sure, it’s easy to see the resistance, the friction. I’ve been dabbling with the thought, rolling it around. How do I interpret the data? One way may say “It’s because your idea is good”, another “It’s because your idea is bad”. Still another says, “You’ve not worked at it hard enough. You lack discipline.”


Like anyone else, I analyze myself and the world around me to find, not just any path forward, but my path forward. I build systems to test if process can make results both predictable and meaningful. Sometimes it’s just a way of making sure I’m not tripping on the coat tails of my own ego.


Yes, while it’s been difficult bringing the knowledge, analog materials, and tools together with experience, I see insufficient evidence to conclude I should stop trying.

The standard I’ve set for this notebook makes it harder than it has to be. There, I said it. But that’s the point. The paper, the leather, the thread, even the air between the signatures. When it all works together, I want you to feel the thing breathe back at you.


As I write this, Piece 7 rests in my lap. I love the size and weight of this little journal. I open its pages and watch how easily each signature lays flat without fighting the others beside it or the cover. It just drapes, comfortably in my hand.


Truth be told, I’ve simply held it for hours, strictly R&D, of course. But I think that’s the moment that matters. Honesty in process. Evidence of time. I make, I create knowing it never lasts forever. Maybe that’s enough for now.

© 2025 Basil Vos. All Rights Reserved. 

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